Basic pattern development - Methods of Measuring Body and Dress Form
Methods of Measuring Body and Dress Form
Methods of Measuring Body and Dress Form
Measuring the human body or the dress form is the first step in development of garments to fit the body well. To take measurements precisely and accurately is the first step in learning to make patterns. Care should be taken to take accurate measurements in order to achieve a good fit. It is extremely important to understand the dress form before starting to take dress form measurements. One should carefully observe the shape of the body, where it is hollow, how shoulder slopes etc. It is equally important for the pattern maker to understand various body functions and how and where each limb moves while performing various body movements or daily tasks.
Method of Measuring a Dress Form
Identify Various Body Parts: Dress forms come in various sizes, shapes, figures, colours, lengths etc. from a number of companies in standard body measurements in different materials. They are available ready made according to standard measurements of a country and can be customized according to the customer profile or target market of the company. A dress form with Size 8 marked on it and made by a US based company is made as per size 8 of US standard size. However, a company dealing with maternity wear will require a customized dress form.
The first step in order to learn to measure a dress form is to know the form. The figure given below identifies the various body parts on the front and back of a standard dress form.
Measurements
1. Front Length: measure from high shoulder neck intersection to waistline over the bust, take care to measure with a hand under the bust in order to measure the underside of the bust.
2. Centre Front Length: measure from neck intersection at centre front to waist at centre front intersection without any pulls.
3. Shoulder to Waistline: measure from the shoulder tip to side seam waistline intersection (over the sides add 3/4th of an Inch as ease for the armhole).
4. Underarm Seam: mark a point X 1" below armhole plate. From the point Xmeasure
down to waistline intersection at the side seam.
5. Shoulder Length: measure from shoulder neck intersection to princess line and then from princess line to the tip of the shoulder.
6. Width of Bust: measure from centre front over the bust to point X on side seam (to just over the seam).
7. Front Waistline: measure from centre front waistline intersection to side seam waist line intersection.
8. Front Hipline: Mark a point with the help of a pin at on centre front which is 7" below the waistline. Using this point measure from floor up, mark this measurement horizontally on the dress form starting from Center front and continue to centre back (keeping it uniform throughout). Put a style tape for reference and label it as hip line. On this line, measure starting from the centre front intersection to side seam intersection (to just over the seam).
9. Apex Measurement: measure from the centre front to the high bust point keeping the tape parallel to the floor.
10. Centre Front to Princess Line: At waistline measure from centre front intersection to princess line intersection.
11. Shoulder Blade: Mark a point Y on centre back so that, from centre back neck intersection to point Y is 1/4thof centre back length. Shoulder blade is measured from point Y to armhole ridge keeping the tape parallel to the floor.
12. Width of Back: measure from point X on side seam to centre back keeping the tape parallel to the floor.
13. Back Waistline: measure from centre back waistline intersection to side seam waistline intersection.
14. Back Hip line: measure from centre back intersection to side seam intersection on hip line marked earlier.
15. Centre Back Length: measure from neck intersection at centre back to waist at centre front intersection without any pulls as for center front.
16. Centre Back to Princess Line: At waistline measure from centre back intersection to princess line intersection.
17. Centre Front Length for Lower Garment: measure from centre front waistline intersection at centre front down to the desired length ensuring that the tape measure has no pulls or folds.
18. Centre Back Length for Lower Garment: measure from centre back waistline intersection at centre back down to the desired length ensuring that the tape measure has no pulls or folds as for centre front.
19. Side Seam Length: measure from waistline intersection at side seam over the hip to ankle ensuring that the tape measure has no pulls or folds.
20. Crotch Depth
(a) On Dress Form: Place an L-square between legs of form and note the measurement at waistline. This measurement includes 1¼" ease as the L-square is generally 1¼" wide.
(b) On Body: make the customer sit on a flat surface ensuring that back of the client is absolutely straight. In this seated position, measure from the waistline intersection at side seam over the figure to the seat of the chair. (Ease needs to be added here.)
21. Knee Circumference: take the round measurement over the fullest part of the knee over the bone. On the body, it should be measured over a bent knee for a complete measurement.
22. Ankle Circumference: take the round measurement over the ankle bone. On the body, it should be measured over ankle and heel for a complete measurement.
23. Cap Height: Tie a tape around the biceps of arm close to the armpit. Cap height is to be measured from shoulder intersection to the top of the tape.
24. Sleeve Length: measure from shoulder intersection over the bent elbow to the wrist.
25. Bicep Circumference: take the round measurement over the fullest part of the arm.
26. Elbow Circumference: take the round measurement over the elbow. On the body, it should be measured over a bent elbow for a complete measurement.
27. Wrist Circumference: take the round measurement over the wrist bone.
Things to Keep in Mind While Taking Measurement on the Body.
Round measurement /girth measurement are to be taken by measuring over the widest point of the body with two fingers between the body and measuring tape, this will ensure that the body is neither pressed nor squeezed.
Note: Remember the measuring tape should not press into the body otherwise measurement may not be accurate.
For lengthwise measurement, ensure that the customer is standing in a natural pose.
Length wise measurement: While taking length wise measurement a hand should be kept under the bust for ensuring that bust is taken while measuring the length. Otherwise the length of the garment will fall short.
Shoulder/cross back measurements are taken from one shoulder bone to the other.
